YONKERS
TOMBOLINO has just celebrated its 29th anniversary here, and clearly it's a restaurant that knows its clientele. Diners are comfortable with the familiar choices, interesting enough but not exotic; the outstanding service, formal but friendly; and the atmosphere, attractive but not challenging.
In its gracious Old World way, Tombolino invites diners to linger. The free appetizers are irresistible: crisp bruschetta topped with sweet tomato salad, a hunk of Parmesan cheese and sautéed zucchini. These nibbles not only thank diners for their patronage but also see a table through the first drink and a look at the long wine list representing about 650 producers, more than half from Italy.
You could begin with a bowl of steamed mussels in white sauce — red sauce, also offered, would have obscured the freshness of these beauties — and come away pleased. These glossy mussels were full and plump, not a sour one in the heap.
A slice of tough bread supported a decent crab cake mixed with a modicum of bread crumbs. Have the kitchen hold the unexpected slice of bread, which at first we thought was cardboard.
The kitchen could have taken a moment to make some presentations more attractive, or at least easier to manage. For instance, it could have loosened the meat from the shell of a chilled steamed lobster half. And it would have been a nicety had the kitchen, with its sharp knives, sliced a prime shell steak (for two) before presenting it. In either case, table knives couldn't do the job.
Pasta seems to be the strong suit. Consider ordering one for the main dish of a satisfying meal, especially when teamed with the spinach salad. The baby greens, scattered with chickpeas, Gorgonzola and a tiny dice of crisped pancetta, came misted with white balsamic vinegar.
To judge from two offerings, pasta dishes were carefully prepared. Special homemade ravioli were gorgeous and so rich that an appetizer of three was the prudent way to go. These pasta pillows were fat with smoked chicken and ground pignoli and were cloaked in a thick, creamy sauce of mascarpone and Gorgonzola. Diners loving a jolt of capsicum pepper will find lots of tasty zing in a bowl of penne all'arrabbiata. The chili-based red sauce, with olives and capers, was not for the faint of heart.
In general, entrees needed more work, and, perhaps, rethinking. Apart from a special orange roughy, a delicious fish that was a tad overwhelmed with the sweetness of a wine sauce, most entrees were unimpressive. We wish the news were better, as this restaurant has a lot going for it, not least in the service, which is eager to please.
The best of our other entrees was a simple broiled seafood combination, an excellent choice for dieters: half a lobster tail, shrimp and a piece of sole. Tender rack of lamb, only a little beyond the first bloom of youth, arrived nicely pink to order. But a substantial lamb shank was chewy and the stewing juices much too salty.
Chicken dishes were total disasters — dry from overcooking. A pity, as one split breast had a terrific stuffing of spinach and cheese and came with a lovely sweet red-pepper sauce, which did nothing, unfortunately, to resuscitate the meat. Nor could the flood of mozzarella covering layers of dry chicken cutlets, sliced zucchini and roasted red peppers add moisture to the meat (alla Joseph).
The best dessert was apple strudel, the flaky pastry holding soft apples showered with cinnamon. In a scooped-out green apple, green apple sorbet arrived impenetrably frozen. Hazelnut cake and lemony torta nonna were creamy and sweet.
Not all preparations live up to the somewhat high prices, and the menu is far from exciting, but we would return for a spinach salad and one of the delectable pasta dishes.
Tombolino
356 Kimball Avenue,
Yonkers. (914) 237-1266
SATISFACTORY
ATMOSPHERE Sprawling, traditional restaurant with many dining areas appropriate for large and small groups. A wine cellar holds about 1,300 bottles. Excellent service, formal yet friendly. Valet parking on weekends.
RECOMMENDED DISHES Mussels in white sauce, penne all'arrabbiata, smoked chicken ravioli special, crab cake (without bread underpinning), spinach salad, special orange roughy, apple strudel.
PRICES Complete lunch, $12 to $15 (soup or salad, entree, dessert and coffee included). Dinner main dishes, $17 to $32.
CREDIT CARDS Major cards.
HOURS Lunch: Tuesday to Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Dinner: Tuesday to Thursday, 3:30 to 10 p.m.; Friday, 3:30 to 11 p.m.; Saturday, noon to 11 p.m.; Sunday, noon to 9:30 p.m.
RESERVATIONS Accepted.
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS Street level.
THE RATINGS Excellent. Very Good. Good. Satisfactory. Poor. Ratings reflect the reviewer's reaction primarily to food, with ambience and service taken into consideration. Menu listings and prices are subject to change.
Review published: April 30, 2006
Correction: May 21, 2006 A restaurant review of Tombolino, in Yonkers, on April 30 misstated the number of bottles in its wine cellar. It has about 13,000 bottles, not 1,300.