RESTAURANTS will frequently repaint their dining rooms or change tired draperies or the color of the linens. Keeping a clean, spiffy look is part of the maintenance every restaurant must undertake. But the original decorative concept is usually unchanged, only refreshed. Alba's, however, has undergone not only redecoration but also total renovation, turning a pleasant but characterless space into a dining room with all the charm of a cozy New England inn.
To the credit of the designer of this redo, every seat has a pleasant prospect; no diner faces dead wall space here. Instead, diners can enjoy a pretty raised fireplace framed by bookcases, a honeycomb rack stocked with wine bottles, or a large mirror reflecting the charming room. Only the acoustics have been overlooked, and at peak moments Alba's qualifies as one of the noisiest restaurants in these parts.
Except for the increase in prices, the table menu has changed little since the restaurant's opening six years ago. The familiar dishes were supplemented by a long list of recited specials, impossible for diners to remember. Tucked into the regular menu, a printed list would be a welcome convenience and a thoughtful touch.
Alba's is the place for wonderful pasta dishes. For a surefire splendid meal, team an entree portion with a salad or one of the lovely appetizers. Glossy under a creamy walnut sauce, plump pillows of pasta called borsetti came stuffed with a mix of wild mushroom and spinach -- the whole a luxury of richness and flavor. For perfect simplicity, look to a bowl of rigatoni filetto de pomodoro, the short tubes of pasta capturing nicely the sauce of crushed tomato, onions and bits of prosciutto. Or have green fettuccine with thick, meaty Bolognese sauce, a splendid dish; or notably light, homestyle gnocchi tossed with cut cherry tomatoes and shreds of radicchio, an unusual but delicious combination.
Among the openers were a couple of interesting offerings. A thick slab of polenta -- gently crisped without but superbly creamy within -- made a fine thirsty bed for escargots in butter-garlic sauce. And an order of gamberi Alba brought two butterflied shrimp, moist and lightly grilled, over white beans, chunks of celery and fresh tomatoes and arugula. Fragrant olive oil and lemon dressed the lot.
Most fish dishes were specials. Look for sage-scented swordfish on a mound of white beans and shiitake mushrooms. Cooked thoroughly, salmon-like char was less exciting, despite the addition of fresh basil.
Firm wild rice and a tumble of soft mushrooms went perfectly with quail, enhancing its delicate but decided gaminess. Grilled cornish hen was as carefully timed. Occasionally the kitchen's timing is off. Chunks of tasty fennel sausage contributed the only juicy bits to chicken scarpariello (off the bone), strips of white chicken breast overcooked and dry.
Two appealing-sounding entrees -- chateaubriand and rack of lamb -- were prepared only for two. But our request for the lamb for one person was granted. On the down side, the ribs arrived bitter with charring and well done, although we ordered rare.
For dessert, a sensational cream pie laced with thin slices of ripe fig could not be beat. Good too was poached pear, but only if rinsed of some of its achingly sweet wine syrup. Skip dry double chocolate mousse cake, bland ricotta cheesecake and soggy apple strudel.
A three-course dinner averages $38 without drinks, tax and tip. Alba's is on Route 1 near the Connecticut border.
Alba's
400 North Main Street,
Port Chester.
(914) 937-2236.
VERY GOOD
ATMOSPHERE Totally renovated into a charming and gracious space resembling the living room of an inn. Very high noise level at peak times. Separate bar. Attentive service.
SMOKING In the bar.
RECOMMENDED DISHES Borsetti with walnut sauce, rigatoni filetto di pomodoro, gnocchi Alba, spinach fettuccine Bolognese, shrimp (gamberi) Alba, escargots with polenta, quail, swordfish with sage, cream fig tart.
PRICES Lunch, main dishes, $14 to $25. Dinner, main dishes, $17 to $27; $15 to $18 for pasta.
CREDIT CARDS Major.
HOURS Lunch, Mondays through Fridays, noon to 3 p.m. Dinner, Mondays through Fridays, 5 to 10 p.m.; Saturdays, 5 to 11 p.m.
RESERVATIONS Advisable; necessary on weekends.
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS Ramp at back.
THE RATINGS Excellent, Very good, Good, Satisfactory, Poor.
Ratings reflect the reviewer's reaction primarily to food, with ambience and service taken into consideration. Menu listings and prices are subject to change.
