AUTUMN leaves threatened to obscure the serpentine road up to La Camelia here, but workers with leaf blowers cleared the way for guests. It would be a pity if the path to this cozy destination were lost, for what it offers is a welcome snuggle on a cold winter's night. Reserve a table next to the fireplace for toasty toes and cheeks.
La Camelia celebrates its 17th anniversary this year, a record tenure for a dining spot on this strip of Bedford Road. To be sure, as with most other restaurants, this one has had its swings, from wonderful to stumbling, but in light of the present economy many places, among them La Camelia, are rethinking complacency and are taking steps to polish their business. Antonio Alvarez, the chef and owner, is again bestowing all his attention on the place, which seems to be reclaiming the fine reputation it has had in the past.
Although it's been a favorite since the place opened, garlic shrimp was a disappointment. The shrimp, good as they were, needed some of the garlic only in the lovely sauce.
But delicately smoky grilled shrimp, served on a small flaky tortilla, proved a winner, and the accompanying chopped vegetable salad, hunky with pieces of avocado, made a worthy mate. Dishes here are full of flavor, no surprise, as the kitchen is generous with its use of fresh vegetables. A simple-sounding salad of crisp string beans, celery root julienne and wafers of tangy cheese added up to a mouthful of complex flavors; as did taut baby asparagus and carrot match sticks wrapped in an eggy country crepe.
Diners who like broiled grilled baby squid (chipirones, a special) will find no better than the moist, tender segments prepared here. A combination of Basque herring and dried cod, however, lacked consistency. On two tries, the rehydrated cod draped over a small dice of vegetables was delicate and satisfying; but one timie the special Basque herring was overly astringent, and once it was gently marinated and delicious.
Skate, an increasingly popular seafood dish, was sautéed, sprinkled with capers and served on a tangle of fresh angel hair. Roasted salmon seemed ordinary in this company.
A great winter dish, long-braised shank of lamb with vegetables almost fell off the bone and into a cloud of mashed potatoes. Slices of baked pear came lovingly arranged, fanned, like a deck of cards, around slices of duck breast -- a delicious combination.
La Camelia offers two classic Spanish dishes: zarzuela and paella -- dishes so generous that two might share an entree. The mélange of seafood zarzuela came sparkling fresh and perfectly cooked in a nicely balanced saffron broth. But an old mussel seemed to slip into the mix of meats and seafood of paella Valenciana, otherwise down-home good.
Of only middling interest, shrimp with a julienne of dry chicken breast (gambas y pollo) could be skipped. Squid with black rice was ruined by the sand in improperly washed squid.
A sampling of excellent Spanish cheese made an excellent ending to a meal. Others included meltingly delicious apple tart and rich, dense flan, among the best of its kind.
Shortening the unwieldy menu (both table and blackboard) to what the kitchen can comfortably stock and expertly deliver and leaving off reciting what is already clear on the blackboard menu would be much appreciated, at least by this customer.
A three-course dinner averages $38 without drinks, tax and tip.
La Camelia
234 North Bedford Road,
(Route 117), Mount Kisco.
(914) 666-2466.
GOOD
ATMOSPHERE Cozy dining rooms with fireplaces in an old Colonial house on a hill overlooking Mount Kisco's valley. Warm, gracious service.
RECOMMENDED DISHES Grilled shrimp, string bean and celery root salad, country crepe with vegetables, chipirones, skate wing, zarzuela, breast of duck with pear, shank of lamb, cheese sampler, flan, apple tart.
PRICES Lunch, main dishes, $9 to $16. Dinner, main dishes, $18 to $26.
CREDIT CARDS Major cards accepted.
HOURS Lunch, Tuesdays through Fridays, noon to 3 p.m. Dinner, Tuesdays through Saturdays, 5:30 to 10 p.m.; Sundays, noon to 9:30 p.m. Brunch, Sundays, noon to 3:30 p.m.
RESERVATIONS Always a good idea.
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS Shallow step at the entrance; restrooms on the second floor.
THE RATINGS Excellent, Very good, Good, Satisfactory, Poor.
Ratings reflect the reviewer's reaction primarily to food, with ambience and service taken into consideration. Menu listings and prices are subject to change.
